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© SAIGA Tours
Start
May 12, 2025
Almaty
Almaty
2025-05-12
End
May 17, 2025
Almaty
Almaty
2025-05-17
Duration
6 days
Price
US$1295.00
TOUR OVERVIEW
Heard of Chernobyl? You know, possibly the most famous accident in recent history, so disastrous that it’s almost unbelievable. Well this is Kazakhstan’s answer to Chernobyl – but it was done on purpose. The test site at Semeypalatinsk, or the Polygon, is where the Soviet Union did the majority of their nuclear testing, performing 456 nuclear tests between 1949 and 1989, with a total of 2,500 times the power of the bombs dropped at Hiroshima. The area used to be closed off, but is now open to those with permits.
Although our tour is centred around exploring the test site and surrounding areas, we’ll start off in the cosmpolitan city, and former capital, of Almaty, and will finish up in futuristic Astana (formerly known as Nur Sultan, formerly known as Astana, formerly known as Akmola, formerly known as Tselinograd).
This tour can be done alone or in conjunction with our 5 Stans Spring Tour .
If you like the look of this tour but the dates don't work for you, or you'd like to do part of the tour, please get in touch and let us know. All our tours are able to be split into smaller sections, we're always scheduling new tours and your dates might work for one of them, or we can always organise an independent tour.
INCLUSIONS:
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Accommodation in twin share at roughly 3 star hotels/guesthouses, breakfast included |
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Permits for Polygon Test Site Area |
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✓ |
Transport as per itinerary, including internal flight between Almaty and Semey |
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✓ |
Entrance fees to most sites (as per itinerary) |
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✓ |
SAIGA guide and local guides |
SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: $250
EXCLUSIONS:
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Visa fees if necessary |
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Visa support if necessary |
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Meals other than breakfast |
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Transport to and from the start and end of tour |
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Personal expenses such as souvenirs or any optional activities |
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PCR Tests and any other COVID related expenses |
TOUR HIGHLIGHTS
See the surreal Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test Site
Visit the futuristic purpose built capital Nur-Sultan
Find Lenin: Although hidden there's still much left over from the Soviet Union
Itinerary
Day 1Mon May 12
Almaty
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We'll spend today exploring
Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan, and until 1997, its capital. As is becoming increasingly common in Kazakhstan, Almaty was formerly known as Alma-Ata and before that Verny.
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We'll start exploring Almaty with a walking tour, beginning in Panfilov Park, named after the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen from Almaty, who died during the Battle of Moscow in 1941. Inside this park is Zenkov Cathedral, a Russian Othodox Church, its claim to fame is being the largest wooden structure in the world constructed with only joins, and no nails. Panfilov Park is also home to the very impressive
28 Guardsmen war memorial, a mammoth Soviet monument flanked by plaques to each of the Soviet Hero Cities, and this is also where you’ll find Almaty’s Eternal Flame.
- From here we’ll continue down the Arbat, the pedestrianised street that was the centre of all good Soviet cities. However, Almaty went through a lot of city beautification in 2017, and the old Soviet Arbat is now a lively and modern pedestrian mall, complete with hipster coffee trucks, cute cafes and upmarket restaurants.
- We’ll make our way to Zhibek Zholy metro station, to take a ride on the Almaty metro. One of only two metros in Central Asia (the other being in Tashkent), it has just nine stations, so is largely useless to most people. However, like many metros in the former Soviet world, the stations themselves are ornately decorated, sparkling clean, and well worth a look at.
- This particular station’s name translates to Silk Road, and there are several very impressive mosaics depicting the Silk Road.
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And we’ll use the metro to get to our next stop - something that isn't on other tour itineraries, and in fact most people in Almaty aren't even aware of this gem of Soviet history. Hidden in amongst medium density housing, there's a park which is now home to all the unwanted Soviet statues that were moved from their original places throughout the city and dumped unceremoniously here. Our favourite is the giant Lenin which used to be in Old Square, removed from his plinth and just standing flat on the ground with no sign or plaque to be seen.
- Returning to the centre of the city, we'll pass Old Square and Republic Square, the two places where the Kazakh Parliament used to take place before moving to Astana in 1997. These are also where we recently saw fatal riots in January 2022, along with the images of the destroyed city hall and presidential residence.
- If you like to have a night out of any type, whether it’s fine dining, a cosy bar, a noisy pub or even the ballet, Almaty is the city you’re going to want to do it in.
Day 2Tue May 13
Almaty, Semey
- We head north today, and while it would be great to go overland, the distance we’ll be covering would take a couple of days, so instead we’ll catch a flight to the city of Semey.
- Semey is definitely not on the normal tourist trail, though it will feel a lot more like civilisation compared to Kurchatov, where you'll be going next. Some will know it by its Russian name – Semipalatinsk. Semey is the epitome of Soviet Kazakhstan and was formerly one of the main cities in the north of the country, although it’s now overshadowed by nearby Astana (formerly Nur-Sultan). Semey is also said to have a much stronger Russian character compared with most of Kazakhstan, owing to the closeness to the Russian border and the large scientific community.
- We’ll take a look around town admiring the mosaics and public art. We'll stop at the "I Love Semey" sign, see examples of pre-Soviet, Soviet, and post-Soviet architecture, and the "Stronger than Death" anti-nuclear monument. We'll end up at what will probably be a highlight of Semey - the famous Lenin Alley. It's literally a line of Lenin busts and statues.
- In the evening, we will have the option to take a pretty unique river cruise through the town of Semey (not included in tour price), on an old Soviet liner giving you a nice industrial feel of the town.
Day 3Wed May 14
Semey, Polygon, Kurchatov
- In the morning, we will make the drive to Sarzhal, a small traditional Kazakh village which was the closest settlement to the nuclear test site. From here we’ll really be able to get the context of how close some of these people were to the nuclear testing.
- We’ll be able to see Degelen, also known as Plutonium Mountain because of the many underground nuclear tests that took place here, that changed this once nomadic oasis into the post-apocalyptic moonscape that it now is.
- And as a little bonus, in Sarzhal, we will also have the chance to try what is considered the most famous horse milk in Kazakhstan. We’re not sure if we believe them, but the locals swear it’s not radioactive. Upto you whether you try some (possibly) radioactive horse milk or not!
- Leaving the town, we'll start seeing the nuclear sites themselves . Our first stop is the famous atomic lake. This lake was made by an explosion 25 times greater than Hiroshima. While it might look like the lake was an interesting consequence of the testing, it was in fact an intentional side effect, as the experiments were designed for earth-moving purposes to artificially create lakes, harbours and canals. Unbelievably, locals fish in the lake, despite warnings by authorities that it is hazardous.
- We’ll then head to the town of Kurchatov, a formerly closed city, where the headquarters of the nuclear testing was based. This town is known as the Soviet “Los Alamos”, named after the founder of the Soviet nuclear program Igor Kurchatov.
- And we'll spend the evening exploring this eerie and bizarre town. Due to its importance and the stature of the residents, this was a resplendent town, full of grandeur - wide boulevards, impressive buildings with grand entrances, the most expensive housing available. Most of the town is derelict now as there is no employment to sustain the town’s population, so it's a great place to explore and get your abandoned Soviet stuff fix.
- The accommodation tonight will also be a very Soviet experience, in the only hotel in town.
Day 4Thu May 15
Kurchatov, Polygon, Degelen Train Station
- In the morning, we will continue exploring the town of Kurchatov and learning about its nuclear history.
- We’ll then head off back into the steppe to check out Chagan abandoned airbase. During the Cold War this was home to one of the Soviet Union’s main air force bases for the deployment of long-range bombers carrying nuclear weapons. The location is interesting as it’s on the Chinese border. Part of the reason for its location was the rising tensions due to the Sino-Soviet split.
- We’ll then continue on to more of the nuclear test site – known as the Polygon . 456 Nuclear tests were conducted here, and the effects can be witnessed first-hand with the destroyed surroundings and large craters caused by the explosions.
- We’ll explore the bunkers used by those performing the tests and the epicentres of the explosions.
- We will then head back to Kurchatov for a bite to eat at a local soviet style canteen or ‘stolovaya’, before heading to Degelen train station, to catch the overnight train to Astana.
- For anyone following a map, or familiar with these locations, you might be wondering why we're going to Degelen, a town 130km south of Kurchatov. During the Soviet Union, this was one of the most prestigious and important towns in the whole country, but it was also equally as secretive, and they literally named the train station after a different town so that the location wasn't given away.
Day 5Fri May 16
Astana
- We will spend today exploring this very spread out, but ridiculously impressive city.
- Built in 1997, Astana resembles in many ways other cities such as Ashgabat, or to a lesser extent Baku. Clearly built from nothing at the snap of a finger, several of the world's most iconic architects were given carte blanche and tasked with the epic job of designing an incredibly unique city.
- What's in a name? Although currently known as Astana, it was known as Nur Sultan (after the first President of Kazakhstan Nur Sultan Nazarbayev) from 2019 until 2022, before that the city was known as Astana for the first time. Before 1997 it was Tselinograd, and before that it was Akmola or Akmolinsk in Russian.
- For anyone who could do with a bit of freshening up after the overnight train, we’ll have an optional visit to a local Russian-style bathhouse, known as a banya (not included in tour price). This is great way to scrub up and experience some Russian and Kazakh culture before heading out to explore the city.
- We’ll start our exploration of the city with a SAIGA favourite – mini Kazakhstanland! Which is pretty much what you’d expect – it’s a land made of miniature models of each province in Kazakhstan. Including Kurchatov of course, so it’s a really cool way to recap all the things you’ve seen on the trip so far.
- We then continue exploring the sites of the city, taking in the interesting architecture, both old and new, from old relics of the Soviet Union (including a visit to a Soviet antique store) as well as the new modern skyscrapers and palaces.
- Next we'll make a stop at the Palace of Independence, before continuing on to the shopping and entertainment centre "Khan Shatyr", probably Astana's most famous building. The building is in the shape of a giant, slightly lop-sided tent, and it's got everything inside that you might want. Restaurants, luxury shops, and even an aquapark which has sand imported from the Maldives.
- We'll finish up the city tour with a visit to Bayterek. Sometimes referred to as the “Chupa Chup” because it looks like one, Bayterek has become a symbol of Astana. From the viewing platform, which is 97 meters high, symbolising the year of the city becoming capital, you can get spectacular views over the new city.
- And for our final night together, we’ll suggest a group dinner at our favourite restaurant in this city, Epokha. It's Soviet themed, but to the next level, and descriptions just won't do it justice.
Day 6Sat May 17
Astana, End of tour
- Today marks the end of our Polygon adventure. If you'd like any help with continuing your adventure in Kazakhstan, or anywhere in Central Asia, please let us know .
Extensions
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