Travelling in Afghanistan as a Woman

Ben Crowley
April 20, 2023


Visiting Afghanistan is a unique experience at the best of times. Take the normal experience of travelling in Afghanistan with that of being a female exploring under the Taliban regime, and you’ve taken unique to the next level. To help others understand the experience as well as get some advice for future travellers, we asked our friend Hayley a few questions about her recent trip.

Hayley Kennedy is an inspirational traveller who has been to almost every country in the world (possibly every country depending on when you’re reading this). Partially-sighted and suffering from chronic alopecia, you can follow her travels at www.baldblindbeautifultravels.com .


What restrictions were placed on you as a female travelling in Afghanistan?

"As a female, you had to be covered up the whole time including most of the time, your face as well. This was quite challenging as very different to other Muslim countries. Also, you had to have a chaperone the whole time, so you had to be near one of the guys in the group. Women were also not allowed in the amusement park, were ignored by the Taliban guards, and generally just didn’t exist."


Was the situation in Afghanistan what you expected?

"It was a lot more relaxed than I was expecting and despite the restrictions of being female we still ableto walk around freely (sometimes accompanied by the Taliban) other times without. Despite the Taliban stopping us and questioning us repeatedly, it felt a lot more like curiosity than they were going to prevent us carrying on our trip."

How did you deal with the clothing requirements?

"I wore long darkish skirts and baggy tops. Bought some bigger headscarves to cover more of back/front and head. I decided to buy bright head scarves as it was obvious, I wasn’t local. No need to wear an abaya, just be respectful."


Was it hard trying not to interact with men?


" No, but it was hard being ignored like I didn’t exist!  Especially when you said hello and thank you! "


Were there any benefits to being a female travelling in Afghanistan?

"Only for the guys you’re travelling with. They get to sit in the family area rather than the men’s only bit!! Women got searched less and often could just stay in the car inside of being felt up.


What was your favourite experience?

Hayley with an air gun in Afghanistan "The tanks in Ghazni, The Blue Mosque in Mazar and the land mine museum in Kabul. Everything really… Was a great trip and interesting to see such a different culture."


What was your least enjoyable experience?

"Having to stand outside the amusement park because women aren’t allowed in to have fun."


Would you recommend travelling to Afghanistan for women?

"100% yes!"


What would your one piece of advice be for women travelling to Afghanistan?

"Take a COVID mask to tuck your head scarf into, so it stays across your face. Wear a sports bra -the roads are bumpy. Buy the local headscarves as they tend to be bigger and cover more of your back/front. If travelling in spring/autumn wear leggings under you skirts – the mountains get cold! "


To find out more about travelling to Afghanistan under the Taliban, you can read more here .

If you’d like to inquire about joining one of our trips, get in touch and we can send you more details.


Ben Crowley

Ben Crowley

Co-founder of SAIGAtours, Ben is known for his extensive trivia knowledge, which comes in very handy for long bus rides! He loves a good road trip and has a passion for driving some of the most dangerous and exciting roads in the world. When not traveling he loves playing and watching sport, and is an excellent squash player.

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